Target: Uncompahgre Peak
Type: Highpoint
State: Colorado

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Uncompahgre National Forest comprises almost a million acres in Southwest Colorado. The area is remote, far from any interstate highways or major cities. Starting from lush pine forests at the lower elevations, large swathes of the Forest sit at high altitudes with rank on rank of dramatic peaks.

The highest of those peaks is the 14321 foot Uncompahgre Peak. It is the ninth highest in the continguous United States and the 17th most isolated. Despite those impressive statistics, it’s really pretty easy to get to with a high clearance vehicle and reasonably stout legs. Unlike some of it’s neighbors, this mountain has no technical sections and a well marked trail all the way to the summit.

I drove in from Utah arriving on the four wheel drive road in late afternoon. Something less than an hour later I was at the Nellie Creek Trailhead and setting up camp. It quickly became apparent that the mosquitos had already claimed the water logged and windless clearing. There are several turnouts along the length of the road that make for good campsites so I packed up and drove back down the road about a mile to drier and more open country.

The scenery was incredible with high peaks surrounding windswept meadows dotted with pines and aspens. Trees hugged the mountainsides before giving way to rocky slopes, and a rushing creek flowed through the middle of it all. Despite being late June there was a chill to the air, that turned to a bite as the sun went behind the ridgeline. It would be a cold night, and a colder morning, but it felt right for the setting.

Rising early I had a quick breakfast, packed up, and drove back to the trailhead. Several vehicles had passed in the early hours and there were a few hikers making their way up the road as well. They must have started very early indeed from the car parking lot several miles downhill. This wasn’t exactly a crowd, but in this remote place it felt like it.

Setting out with a light pack containing some emergency gear, snacks, and plenty of water I started what I anticipated to be the long, slow slog to the top. And it was that in some ways. The trail is only about 3.5 miles, but it is unrelentingly uphill. Flatlanders like me are quickly out of breath at these heights and have to go slower than usual to avoid overexertion and minimize the risk of altitude sickness.

But the scenery. Stunning alpine tundra with snow filled pockets and tumbling streams give way to surreal long range views of the San Juans for mile after snow-capped mile. Marmots dance their fat little meanders up and down the rocks. Before long birds are wheeling below you.

The air grows colder and the wind is fierce, howling through the rocks and tearing over the ridge to overawe your senses. Once you cross the ridge to the West you get the full icy brunt of it since you are higher than all the peaks around and nothing stops the howling, pushing, cutting force of it. But still, the scenery.

About 4/5 of the way up is a very steep scree-like boulder field. This is the most technical section and it never feels exposed or like it requires more than reasonable caution, and that just to avoid accidentally sending a sharp, heavy stone down on the heads of anyone who might be below you. There are various workable routes through here and they are easy to find.

After the scree it’s all slog again, but higher, more exposed, and more beautiful than ever. It’s steeper than the trail below the boulders, but I’m near the top and just keep pushing. And then suddenly I’m there. The terrain opens up and I have 360 degree views to all horizons. There are a few others on top, but it’s a large area and we all take our private moments.

After a cold, windy 20 minutes on the summit I started down what would be even more of a slog. This is the hike that decided me on finally investing in a pair of trekking poles. Worn down by the effort and the altitude, eyes down to avoid a potentially costly misstep, I trudged down to the parking area with only scant rests to look around and enjoy a few last glimpses of these amazing settings. I was satisfied though, and looking forward to some more challenging efforts in future Colorado hikes and climbs.